From a mile out
it looks bizarre, more than improbable, a stout lump of sweeping
lines and pillars erupting out of the plains for no discernible
reason, God's 8th grade art project. It was a distant silhouette the
night before that could just be made out from the lawn where tents
were sloppily erected by the light of headlamps, but it didn't need
to make sense then, in the heavy darkness, separated from you by a
night of dense melatonin dreams.
To get to those
perfect, soaring cracks, that will today chew you up and spit you out
slowly and methodically, you have to humbly scramble up sharp talus
and brush for a few hundred yards that probably feels like much
further, and it's like you're tiny worshippers swarming towards a
temple, laboring up its slopes in a shadow of otherwordly nature.
Which you are in a sense, your fingers and knuckles ready to spill
sacrificial blood, packs full of ceremonial trinkets and attire well
worn by ritual.
The different
sizes have been covered, you've tried and finished a few. Hundreds of
feet of unreal, perfect straight-in hands. Insecure fingers and ring
locks. Steep, unforgiving fists and wider that make you sweat and
swear and nearly weep. Here, stamina and pure grit are rewarded
rather than flashy, technical movement; you have to dig deep. The
line whose proud length you now nervously examine as you rack up and
tie in in the beating afternoon heat is the most coveted in the
guidebook. A grim, perfectly symmetrical chute of grey-brown igneous
rock split by a continuous thin crack on its inside left corner. The
chimney starts on a gentle slope and curves quickly upward,
steepening to just shy of vertical for 130 feet and change. The crack
is steep and discontinuous, undistinguished on its own, but this line
isn't just another crack is it, no, it stands out because of a
sobering geological coincidence the consequence of which you're about
to know intimately: the width of the chute happens to match an
average human being's wingspan all but perfectly. The idea is to
spread out arms and legs and reach, push, scratch, heave, worship
friction, up and up as the walls inch closer together mercifully and
you're finally allowed holds and a stance atop a pillar.
This is a bit
above your limit, you know. Just a bit. You could be stronger.
Fitter. You could have done wall sits and lunges over the past few
weeks to prepare - damn, that would have been a good idea. It
probably won't go. It's too hard. Too sustained. You begin.
Inside the
chimney as you move up the start, what you didn't realize from the
base becomes searingly apparent - this thing has been baking in the
sun all day, you've elected to climb in a microwave. Dumbass. It's a
little after 4. The low sun hammers your back. The rack is leaden,
augmenting gravity.
The first moves
comprise shaky laybacking as you resist the dreaded full stretch.
Submitting, you turn and reach, palming the opposite wall, then
extending your legs outrageously. Your calves engage, feet pressing
out and down, and a dull burn sets in. Tourists point and murmur,
gawking from the distant walking path. It's comically, tangibly hot.
Push out, scoot the feet up, do it again. And again. Claw and
desperately try to jam in the crack when you can. Anything to take a
fraction of your weight off of your screaming legs. You've made some
progress up the chute, but it stretches up and away and you can't see
the top, it's too far, you're moving so slowly. Each added second
spent to hastily slot a nut in the crack yields precious ground to
the advancing pain.
The moves are
rhythmic, regimented; the back of the chimney moves slowly but
steadily down through your aching vertical world as your progress
accumulates. You taste bitter, dirty sweat. The climbing is
singularly physical but you've nearly left your body, it's not
helping, the legs quiver when they're planted for too long, calves
rock solid lumps of pain. But the platform is there, and leading up
to it are holds, precious holds, if you can reach them and rest your
lower half for even a second, you know you'd have it in the bag.
Growling, desperate groans and animal barks escape your teeth. Thirty
feet. Twenty. Ten. It hurts.
You reach down to place a cam, you haven't done so in too long,
fifteen, twenty feet, it takes eons, it's sloppy, but it will do, a
few desperate seconds and the rope is clipped, you look up, wince,
your left foot slips, hip rotates out, weight comes entirely onto
your shoulder and arm, you're done, you can fall, take, no,
a noisy exhalation and the foot is back wedged into the corner.
Up.
Up, because it's the only direction that has ever made sense. Up,
while your body is young, while time allows it, while the sense of
urgency that chased you to the desert and the Rockies and jagged
canyons and shitty slabs and bird shit-covered ledges and smelly cars
with strangers hurtling through the night to suffer and sweat and
fester in tents for a three day weekend remains unexpired. Up,
because the pain is heartbreakingly worth it, more clearly, acutely
worth it than you can ever remember until it's in you and through you
and out of you in gasps and hoarse, croaking yells through peeling
lips as your hands find the holds and you crawl onto the platform and
collapse, your partner exhaling, the tourists on the road offering
faint whoops and clapping, your muscles and skin a sad wreckage, the
route done on sight, the accomplishment spectacularly meaningless in
the grand scheme of the sport and in the world in general, the
solitary satisfaction of which tears a gaping grin into your arid
mouth as you lay on dusty rocks and breathe.

Image is from Mountain Project. Not me.